A new floor only stays flat if the base under it is flat and solid. Click-lock joints separate over dips, tile cracks over soft spots, and hardwood squeaks where sheathing moves on the joists. Nearly a third of Toronto homes were built in 1960 or earlier, and settling leaves sags near stairs and bearing walls. We correct them first so the new floor meets the manufacturer’s flatness tolerance.
Low areas are feathered with self-levelling compound or built up with shims on the joists, depending on depth.
Loose plywood is re-fastened with screws into the joists and gaps are shimmed so boards stop rubbing.
Water-damaged or delaminated panels are cut out and replaced with new tongue and groove plywood.
Levelling brings dust, wet compound and cut plywood into the house, so we contain each one.
High spots are ground with a vacuum attached to the grinder. Doorways to the rest of the house are sealed with plastic sheeting.
Before a pour we seal floor vents, gaps at the walls and holes in the subfloor, and set foam dams at doorways so compound stays in the room.
Wet compound cannot be walked on. We mark which rooms are closed and leave a route through the house where the layout allows.
Empty bags, plywood offcuts and old fasteners leave the house as we go. Hallways and stairs the crew uses are swept at the end of each day.
Typical ranges before 13% HST. The final price depends on how deep the dips are, how much sheathing needs replacing and what goes on top.
$1 – $4 / sq ft
$2 – $5 / sq ft
$1 – $2 / sq ft
The old floor comes up so we can see the sheathing, fasteners and joist layout.
A straightedge and laser show where the floor is out of tolerance.
Loose panels are screwed down and damaged plywood is replaced.
Self-levelling compound fills the lows, then we check flatness again before install.
How flat and how stiff the base must be depends on what goes on top. Click-lock vinyl and laminate need a surface within the maker’s flatness tolerance, checked with a straightedge. Hardwood needs sheathing that holds nails without movement. Tile needs a stiff floor as well as a flat one: the TCNA sets L/360 as the deflection limit for ceramic and porcelain over wood framing, and L/720 for natural stone. A floor that is fine for vinyl may need extra plywood before tile. We scope the subfloor repair to the floor you have chosen.
The Ontario Building Code calls for at least 15.5 mm plywood or OSB subfloor on joists up to 500 mm apart and 18.5 mm at 600 mm, a little more for some OSB grades. Tile set with adhesive over plank or OSB subfloor also needs a panel underlay at least 6 mm thick.
Self-levelling compound does not fix a bouncy floor. Loose or thin sheathing is repaired first.
Cracked, notched or undersized joists are structural. We flag them and tell you when a permit may apply.
Our old floors were uneven and badly worn, but the crew completely transformed them. We're very impressed with the quality and would gladly recommend them.
Excellent flooring installation from start to finish. The team was professional, punctual, and left our Toronto home spotless. Our new hardwood floors look incredible.
Replacing floor finishes generally doesn't need a permit; structural changes to joists or subfloor framing may. See the <a href="https://www.toronto.ca/services-payments/building-construction/apply-for-a-building-permit/when-do-i-need-a-building-permit/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">City of Toronto permit guidance</a> and ask us if your job involves joist work.
Squeaks come from loose sheathing rubbing on nails. We screw the plywood to the joists and shim gaps. Compound alone does not stop squeaks.
It depends on the product and the pour thickness. We follow the manufacturer's cure time and moisture limits before any flooring goes on top.
Yes, when the slab is out of tolerance. We grind high spots and fill lows before the planks go down.